Piute Creek You then head south on the JMT, along the river until you reach the junction with the Goddard Canyon Trail. Crest Piute Pass, then drop down toward Summit Lake. But the Ionian Basin is a very special place for backcountry skiers, with all kinds of great slopes and skiable peaks. I highly recommend this one. I wasnt enjoying this as much as I would have liked. Just needed a puffy jacket, could skip the fleece. Generally considered a challenging route, it takes an average of 12 h 41 min to complete. Very scenic. Here is a brief summary of our route: South Lake Trailhead - Bishop Pass - Dusy Basin - LeConte Canyon - Muir Pass - Evolution Valley - Puite Creek Canyon - Humphrey's Basin - Piute Pass - North Lake Trailhead. We returned to camp and reorganized and then started the hike into Evolution Valley. To avoid the risk of getting sick, most Sierra backpackers filter or treat their drinking water. We hiked through Evolution Meadow and decided to stay a few miles away near the McClure Meadow Ranger Station (closed due to Covid-19). Such a memorable backpacking trip! Soon the trail crossed Evolution Creek, which was quite large at this point. Water was everywhere but crossings were Ok. Bugs were not a issue. Campsites: Lake Georg, Long Lake, descent down from Dusy Basin, Helen Lake, McLure Meadow, Puite Canyon Trail, Summit Lake. When we crossed the river it was only about knee deep and also like to mention NO mosquitoes so we were super lucky. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); Your email address will not be published. Just as I was pondering what to do, a couple came down the trail! This trek met every expectation I had plus some! Overnight temps didn't drop below 40 F. I like the big vistas so I think I would do the Lamarck Col Route from the North Lake Trailhead to Evolution Lake next time and skip Piute Canyon. Lakes and rivers were full due to late snowmelt. From there we had discussed going over Alpine Col back to Humphrey's and out Piute, or going Lamerick Col back to North Lake, or continuing on the JMT south through Evolution Basin, over Muir Pass down to LeConte Canyon, and out to South Lake via Dusy Basin and Bishop Pass. By trying to further lighten our loads over and over again, we hit the trail far later than expected, so by necessity had to pitch our tents after only four miles at Saddlerock Lake (11,128 feet). Diego, the 11-year-old Lab mix, was struggling; the family carried him part way. A boat-taxi across the lake is available from the trailhead in the summer. This will bring you onto the PCT north of Evolution Valley, a distance of about 16 miles. Leave the JMT, and follow the drainage up to Darwin Canyon. Thunder some days. Overall a great hike in the High Sierras. One of the greatest hikes I've ever done. Reports of hail and lightning from others along the trail. Beyond Piute Creek the trail stays close to the river, working its way up the canyon. They came across a congregation of stunning peaks lining the South Fork of the San Joaquin River, and they altered course to the glaciated valley beneath them, finding clear lakes, dwarf meadows, and jagged sky-stabbing peaks. After we got a bit past Summit Lake, we left the trail and headed to Lower Desolation Lake, Desolation Lake and Mesa Lake, where we camped for the night. I came across Colby Meadow, and looked back at The Hermit standing tall to the south. Maybe not bathing for three days has its advantages. But the Reader Leader contest was all it took to get me planning again. Did this 8/8-8/12, 5 days / 4 nights. On my way between JMT and Piute there were 5+ stream crossings that necessitated wading. 5.1 trip report. Another 1.5 miles up the canyon is the turnoff to Evolution Valley. I got out the map and came up with a plan, but it wasnt perfect. We decided to put in stakes about a mile and a half before Piute Pass on what I considered to be the Best in Show campsite winner. There were a few sections that were mosquito-dense, but otherwise the bugs and critters were tolerable! Next we go through Evolution Valley skirting Darwin Canyon, passing through Evolution Basin and crossing the Goddard Divide just before going over Muir Pass (11,855'). GoPro video as I crossed the wooden bridge. The trail even flattened out to make my way easier. The climb up to Piute Pass was uneventful, passing a series of lakes on the way to the day's high point. Lunch at Evolution Lake. Evolution lake is awesome. The North Lake-South Lake loop is there High Sierra at its very best! I could see both up and down the canyon, and there was no shortage of glaciated granite in evidence. The Bishop Group is accessible from the South Lake Trailhead, either to Treasure Lakes, or Bishop Pass. But the views from the trail made up for it. Your email address will not be published. But the point is we were beat! Our group of six left a vehicle at the termination point (South Lake trailhead) then drove to the North Lake overnight parking lot and we started our journey in the late afternoon. My understanding is that dogs are not allowed in the Kings Canyon National Park. This great hike to scenic Piute Pass ascends beneath the multi-hued Piute Crags to a beautiful lakes basin tucked beneath Mt. Heres how I did it: Day one Take the Piute Pass Trail from North Lake Campground, 20 miles west of Bishop, and hike six miles gaining 2,000 feet to make camp near Upper Golden Trout Lake (no camping within 400 feet). Switchbacks up were very nice. I found a spot right next to the creek in the shade of a small grove of trees. I heard it thundering off to the side of the trail and went over to check it out, and Im glad I did. The next morning, we went over Piute Pass and continued 10+ miles through beautiful Piute Canyon to Hutchinson Meadow. Usually we did it in 7 days. Piute Pass was comparatively easy with just a few snow patches. When Leor Pantilat's FKT for the Evolution "loop" came up in my news feed, I skimmed it and moved on, having other things on my mind. It is my favorite all-time Sierra hike. Tracked 40 miles total and we caught the ferry on the way in and out. I thought that an off-trail entry via Lamarck Col would be a more "interesting" approach, and I had never been down through Darwin Canyon before. I climbed upward for two miles without seeing a single decent campsite, either. Evolution Valley Ascension, Kings Canyon National Park and John Muir Wilderness, California Sierra Club Outings Trip | Backpack More Photos Highlights Traverse high mountain passes including Piute and Muir Hike among lush green meadows full shallow tarns Enjoy a layover day to explore or relax Includes The Ultimate Roommate Compatibility Test: Backpacking the Oregon Coast Trail, 9 Spectacular Early Spring Backpacking Trips You Can Do Right Now, The 20 Best Backcountry Lakes to Hike This Summer, Atmospheric Rivers Pound California, Closing Multiple Parks and Recreation Sites, Missing Appalachian Trail Hikers Body Found in Shenandoah, Park Officials Say. Front Runners List: Click to see list completion progress by climbers that log their climbs using Peakbagger.com. I've done this trail 4 times and it is amasing. It was not very buggy and lightly rained on 2/8 days. The JMT headed off to the west before switchbacking its way down to the valley floor (700 feet of descent) while the creek simply dropped straight down over the side of the canyon. 4 trip report day 8-12: Red's Meadow Resort to Muir Trail Ranch. Camp, or finish the last 2.7 miles to the trailhead. Here is a brief summary of our route: South Lake Trailhead - Bishop Pass - Dusy Basin - LeConte Canyon - Muir Pass - Evolution Valley - Puite Creek Canyon - Humphrey's Basin - Piute Pass - North Lake Trailhead. Youll find other good campsites on this knoll. After the narrows, the valley widened and there were many hot and sunny meadows that I trudged through, at least according to the map. Purchase tickets in the store. A mother deer plus two babies. Thanks to Covid regulations, the signs posted trailside asked people not to visit unless it was an emergency, One of the signs mentioned a Bold, Aggressive, Large Bear that had been raiding food at the Piute Creek area exactly where I planned to stay that night! Conditions are continuously changing and wilderness hikers need to plan for inclement weather. ~. I jumped up and pumped them for information. A mother deer plus two babies. We parked 3mi down from the trailhead in the overnight parking and caught a ride in the construction workers truck bed (thank you!). Up until Sep 11th there was a shuttle service that we could have used to get from South Lake to the North Lake trailhead -- running a couple of times a day and costing $20. At first the canyon was narrow, and the river had created deep channels to flow through. We went north to south. We hiked this trail June 5th to the 7th. Finally, two ladies told me that there was a spot just ahead, right next to the creek! This was a beautiful scenic area with decent camping and a gorgeous small lake (Loch Leven). The other entrance is by way of North Lake going over Piute Pass (11,500') and passing through Humphries Basin and Piute Canyon. But it was still too hot for climbing, I told myself. There were hikers with quick-drying shoes that just walked right in, but most of us had a chance to talk as we dried our feet. Oh well. The first thing the trail did was cross the river on a wooden bridge, far upstream from its merging with Evolution Creek, so it was still relatively small. Emerson and Peak 12691. 7/19/2014 - 17.03 miles, 2,992 AEG - Piute Bridge to Evolution Creek The day started with a six mile roundtrip hike to Muir Trail Ranch to obtain our resupply. Does this seem like a fair deal to you? For a topographic map of the hike see my CalTopo Page, For LOTS more photos of the trek see my Flickr Page, Dawn alpenglow over Evolution Lake as I packed up all my gear for another big day of hiking, Dawn color in the clouds above Evolution Valley to the north, Waterfall on the creek that descends from Darwin Bench, after the JMT descends into Evolution Valley, Crossing the creek below the waterfall it was very wide with many small crossings, The Hermit (12328 feet elevation), standing alone and shining bright, at the upper end of Evolution Valley, View up Evolution Valley, over McClure and Colby Meadows with Evolution Creek on the right, and The Hermit, center, The McClure Meadow Ranger Station and the notices outside near the trail, View over McClure Meadow in the morning light, Still water on an curving stretch of Evolution Creek, down in the flat section of Evolution Valley, This is the lower ford of Evolution Creek, where the PCT-JMT crosses this could be dangerous in Spring, The first of several powerful waterfalls and cascades on Evolution Creek down at the lower end of Evolution Valley, One waterfall after another on this section of the creek, Wide-angle GoPro shot looking down into the worn granite where Evolution Creek tumbled downward, One last view of Evolution Creek as it churned down a granite chute on its way out of Evolution Valley, Mount Henry (12196 feet) peeking out between two glaciated granite domes above the South Fork San Joaquin River, The wooden bridge where the JMT-PCT first crosses the South Fork San Joaquin River, Aspen and pine forest at a much lower elevation it was HOT, The metal bridge where the PCT-JMT crosses the South Fork San Joaquin River, View from the metal bridge looking north (downstream), The South Fork San Joaquin River as I hiked north on the John Muir Trail in the sun, The river goes through a steep gorge down below a talus slide. Recommend to everybody. Read more + No smoke from the California wildfires. Water was flowing on a lot of the trail down. Though ruled by an evil mosquito king that keeps his troops busy, Big Pete Meadow (the meadow part should have been our clue) was a delight. Join Outside+ to get access to exclusive content, 1,000s of training plans, and more. Video of a waterfall on Piute Creek near my campsite in lower Piute Canyon. The most challenging part of the hike was crossing the river. By heading upstream on a use-trail for a quarter mile to a meadow, you will find a shallower ford. Sawyer Water Filters are popular because of their light weight and ease of use, but the bags they provide are susceptible to developing leaks. The SteriPen Adventurer has become popular because it is more reliable than earlier models. Why cant I breathe? Roundtrip mileage to the McClure Meadow Ranger Station from the south end of Florence Lake is about 15.5 miles and 1500 feet of elevation gain. This trail is great for backpacking, birding, and camping, and it's unlikely you'll encounter many other people while exploring. On the way back, check out the Blayney hot springs - they are magical! Following that, we returned to North Lake via Lamarck Col, a high pass just short of 13,000'. Campsite 4: Darwin Canyon. Our simple food choices were holding very well. We saw a snow avalanche once at a distance. The lake is 53 miles east of Prather. to North Lake Road, 20 mi to Pine Creek 856 110 to 114 SEKI - Goddard (28) Aspen Meadow & Goddard Creek Junction 851 to 855 114 to 121 SEKI - McClure Meadow (33) Evolution Valley, McClure, and Colby Meadows 845 to 851 121 to 127 SEKI - Evolution Basin (34) Evolution Lake, Wanda Lake, to Muir Pass 838.5 to . Didnt know you needed a reservation to drive through Yosemite, so consider going through Sonora Pass (unless you go through after 4pm). straightforward trail. We hiked this loop from North to South Lake. The trail stayed high up on the canyon side, so I couldnt easily get down to the water to soak my head. It follows the south fork of the San Joaquin and Evolution Creek nearly all the way. I have to say, however, that descending into Le Conte Canyon from Dusy Basin, and not the other way around, seemed like the more fortunate direction for my legs and backside. Rattlesnakes are always possible; but with the popularity of the trail, rattlesnakes are rarely seen. You have to cross a river to get to them. The traditional route goes over Piute Pass and down through Humphreys Basin, taking a long time before turning the corner and climbing up to Evolution Valley. Head out on this 30.7-mile out-and-back trail near Lakeshore, California. Then it was hot, and I sweated out what little water I had. "Ridicule is the tribute that mediocrity pays to genius. Day 6: In the morning the sun popped over Piute Pass and we were instantly warmed and reluctant to pack up and head back out into civilization less than 7 miles away. It was uphill all the way, and there was occasional shade, as I had hoped, so I didnt get heat stroke or anything. We slept near the shores of Evolution Lake. The latest gear, trips, stories, and more, beamed to your inbox every week. It ended the same way that it started: With Waterfalls! Was it this heavy yesterday? We would love to be back again sometime. Next time will have to aim to go under 30 pounds. Did South to North lake. The North Lake-South Lake loop is the famous "Rainbow Trail" and includes spectacular scenery visiting such areas as Dusy basin, Le Conte Canyon, Muir Pass, Evolution valley, and Humphrey's Basin. The trail to Piute Pass (11,423-ft.) ascends the lovely North Fork of Bishop Creek, passing photogenic Loch Leven and Piute Lakes along the way. One way for an adult is $15, round-trip $28; children 12 and under are $7 and $13. Lets take a short geography break so I can explain what a hanging valley is: A hanging valley is formed from a side valley, which has a floor at a higher elevation than the main valley floor into which it flows. Call me crazy, but theres just something great about sitting around a campfire with your friends sharing sugar and a swig. Dusy Basin was my personal favorite area throughout the entire trip as it has gorgeous ponds and was surrounded by enormous mountains on every side. Also included are North Lake, South Lake, Piute Pass, Evolution Valley and Lake Sabrina. It took us a little over five days (as schedued) to complete the hike. Lots of camping spots with water so you can make your day as long or short as you like. Darwin/Bench. The trail skirts the northern shore of Loch Leven. On the fourth day of my trek, I backpacked north from Evolution Lake, down into the Evolution Valley with its lush meadows and waterfalls, then down even further to the South Fork San Joaquin River, which I followed downstream yet more, until I left the JMT/PCT for the Piute Pass Trail, climbing this time, and eventually camped along Piute Creek. Others seemed to have no issues on the regular crossing. Definitely a moderate hike, but doable in 4 days. P. i. psammophilus is known from the Salinas Valley and may be a synonym of P. i. neglectus (Best 1993; Williams et al. classic Sierra beauty from the very start. My mood was improving by the minute! Pass along rocky shores of Evolution Lake JMT092 Location: 37.054474, -118.501686 Start of the Golden Staircase, last section of the JMT to be completed. Thousands upon thousands of happy people enjoying the wilderness. $4,995: August 6-11. Day 2 Evolution Valley 17.18 2977 AEG Emptied our packs and hiked down to the Muir Trail Ranch to pick our resupply. mostly exposed to the sun so take a good cover. There are several decent camping spots in the meadow and they are all next to heavy-flowing Piute Creek. I had heard from many thru hikers that Evolution Valley was the absolute best. It was only 1:30pm, and I had a decision to make: Was I going to camp near here (where the large, aggressive bear might be prowling) or was I going to continue hiking on the Piute Pass Trail, uphill for miles in this roasting heat? Tough climb over the pass at 11,423 and descended into Paiute Canyon where we connected up with the JMT. I sat down on a boulder near my gear and got out some snack. Great hike to explore the backcountry and multiple parks. However, on the way back from Forsyth, I had some time to think about it while dealing with trail miles.On paper, 55 miles with 10k vertical in 12h15 looks soft; Yours Truly ran 50 miles with 12k vertical in about 9 hours at San Juan Solstice, and the . I put on my night clothing and used a bit of DEET on my face to repel them. There are possible campsites on Darwin Bench. I wasnt thrilled, but I figured that there would be a side creek somewhere along the way, as the map showed some possibilities. This is one of my favorite trips of many in the eastern Sierra. Having driven by this part of the Sierras countless times on Hwy 395, gazing at that saw-toothed range, I always wanted to be the Norman Clyde, the John Muir, the Clarence King who had the privilege of a first ascent or true solitary immersion. What a sight! The McClure Meadow is one of the most beautiful meadows I have ever seen! But, conditions are still challenging. We hiked up to Piute Creek the first day it was 13.1 miles since the ferry was not running on our hike up. Along the way I came across the Muir Rock which I had seen on the topo map. This was fortunate, because I dont think we could have walked any further even if you told us there was free cold beer around the next bend served by Matthew McConaughey. I was definitely overheating, and simply wanted to take a long rest. Evolution Valley was about four miles long, and descended from 10,000 to 9,000 feet elevation, which was quite a mellow grade, and definitely below the treeline. The Tyee Lakes part was not the most beautiful part and was pretty strenuous, but made transportation much easier. if you go over table top mountain you can make it a complete loop. Those first four and last four miles are always the hottest. Maybe if I was lucky there would be a breeze. Your email address will not be published. We took four full, plus two half days, to hike the 57-mile route starting at South Lake and ending at North Lake, so 10-12 miles each day was the score. Camp at Wanda! It was desert like in the high alpine on that side. Pat was the captain of the ferry and Charlie ran the little store, nice couple. Climbing glacier carved granite benches, the trail passes Loch Leven, Piute Lake and many smaller lakes and ponds on the way to the pass. Maybe I was oxygen-starved, but my companions said they were similarly affected. Plan a late summer trip to avoid the worst of them. Its about half way down Dusy basin. Some of the travel is cross country but fairly easy to navigate. Ive seen worse, bug-wise. Evolution Creek had already joined forces and the river was much larger. Great trail, not all of it is technically dog friendly since you enter Kings Canyon NP for the 2nd half. I hiked along this stretch of river for almost three miles, and sweated profusely the entire time. Backpacking Has Changed a Lot Over the Past 50 Years. Fork), from which you access Evolution Valley via Piute Creek down to the River, then back up the river and Evolution Creek to McClure Meadow and beyond; stated simply, from the pass this is a down-up. Theodore S. Solomons and E.C. Challenging but absolutely worth it, forever in my memories. Free parkinggotta love that! We made a few mistakes that cost us a lot of time, however.we didn't take the ferry out, and lost the trail around the lake - a mistake that cost us several hours to climb over boulders and ledges. Highly recommend pushing up to lower Dusy Basin (though there are several campsites about 1200 vertical feet up from Le Conte, just prior to a bridge crossing) (night 4). Membership. Golden trout present. Pingback: Tahoe hiking: Bay View to Azure Lake. 34.3 mi Distance 17 hrs 56 min Time terrain 4,821 ft Elev Gain Overview This is a difficult loop trail in Inyo National Forest. The mosquitos were relentless though. . My sincere thanks to the fire fairies who set this up for us. Completed this loop South - North May 26-29. Finally it is accepted as self-evident." Schoepenhouer "Man will occasionally stumble over the truth, but most of the time he will pick himself up and continue on." Winston Churchill "When they think they know the answers, people are . Our total hiking miles over 5 days was 41.8 miles then we caught the ferry for the extra couple. No more High Sierra tundra for me today! Explore Evolution Valley - view hand-curated trail maps and driving directions as well as detailed reviews and photos from hikers, campers and nature lovers like you. On our way back we crossed even more upstream, and thank goodness we did, because it was a lot shallower there (water came up right below my hips) which made it much easier to cross. Didnt see a bear which a good thing. I recommend an early start because of the exposure in the first 3 miles of Piute Trail. Piute Pass: Begins at North Lake. After that, I was down on the floor of Evolution Valley. Wheres there a low altitude pass that brings me out East of the Darwin Glacier? Day 2: Continue on Piute Pass to reach the JMT (and enter the national park). Reach a footbridge over Jeffrey pine-lined Piute Creek, and camp on designated pads nearby. Before last pass go to side trail golden trout lake to spend a night. We were usually finished hiking each day between 2-5 PM giving us plenty of time to enjoy the area. No mosquitos. Absolutely beautiful the whole time! The trail includes one major unbridged crossing of Evolution Creek - often an exciting wade during the spring run-off - and three . The Section maintains historic summit registers at Bancroft Library on the University of California, Berkeley campus.. A footbridge over Jeffrey pine-lined Piute Creek the trail skirts the northern shore Loch... Got out some snack and a gorgeous small Lake ( Loch Leven - they are all next to river. 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